vacances d'été : Lana'i

My parents had quite the travel line up this June and very generously invited us along. We started at the Four Seasons at Manele Bay on Lana'i. It would happen that Cori got nominated for a special training at work during dates that overlapped our Hawaii plans. The nomination was a big deal and the training and networking were excellent for him. We are so grateful that he got to participate. But it meant that I got to make the trip to the isle of enchantment as a single parent. I knew I wouldn't have to worry about Grace and Grant. Eden did great for the first 5.5 hours. I was happy to take 6.5 hours on the plane with the children over the monster trip Cori made later from Morristown, NJ. (East Coast - Hawaiian Isles = 26+ hours of travel) Grace and Grant had backpacks filled with books, colors, snacks and movie loaded iPods. They were so good.

Lana'i was a surprise. The views on the drive from the airport to the resort were pretty underwhelming. Lots of scrubby, dry looking brush and coniferous trees. It wasn't until we hit the resort property that things started looking tropical. It is interesting how each of the Hawaiian islands can be so very different. 

Lana'i is a very quiet place to visit. The regular population of the island tops off at 3,500 these days. It used to be a giant ranch operation. Mismanagement of the sheep and cattle herds lead to the stripping of most of the island's vegetation. In the 1920's, Mr. Dole bought up most of the island and turned it into the world's largest pineapple plantation. Then in the 1980's David Murdock bought the island (98% of it anyway) and irradiated all pineapple farming with the goal of turning the isle into a tourist destination. He built the two Four Seasons Resorts that provide employment for most of the displaced pineapple workers. The week before we got there, ownership of the island passed on to Oracle Co. CEO Larry Ellison and the locals were abuzz regarding the status of a wind farm that has been in negotiation for some time. There is also some interesting Church history on the island.

Pictured above, a shot I took whilst on a little hike with my dad. Grass, palms and plumeria trees are lush all about the resort property. Everything else pictured is pretty much what the rest of the island looks like.

The Four Seasons was, of course, exquisite. The resort at Manele Bay, where we stayed, is filled with Asian decor and art all from Murdock's private collection. The other Four Seasons, called the Lodge at Koel'e, is a golfing/equestrian haven filled with European art and artifacts from the 16th-18th centuries - again from Murdock's private collection. More on that place later.

There isn't too much to do on Lana'i but hang out at the hotels, swim in the pool and be a beach bum. This is why my parents wanted us along on this trip. We got to just hang out and let the kids do kid stuff.

Eden has become far to comfortable in the water for my liking. She loves to jump off the side, has no problem with complete submersion, and seems to have no aversion to holding her breath for long stretches of time. When she is in the pool I have both eyes on her full time. Crazy baby.

Mom and Dad had some of their own things to do a couple of evenings. Our first night there, after showers etc. the kids and I donned bathrobes and enjoyed dinner in our room. Is this what people do when they stay at the Four Seasons? I don't know. But it was so lovely. 

Our rooms opened onto a large garden with a koi pond. Mom asked at the front desk and was given some bags of fish food. This provided hours of entertainment.

Our breakfast club included Tom and Cindy M*. Tom and Cindy have been friends with my parents for some 30 years now. It was fun to see them again. The breakfast buffet, by the way, was a thing of great beauty. I had eggs benedict nearly every morning. 

Grace spent a little time at the kid's club. She got to make her own lei and do some other projects (projects = Grace heaven). She also lost a tooth. Pardon the gore - she was adamant that I include this picture. 

We spent time playing shuffle board and pool in the billiards room. There was live music out at the pool in the afternoons/evenings. It was so relaxing. 

The beach is just a short trek down from the resort. We went almost every day. The first few days, the tide was rough. There was a strong undercurrent and the 3-4 foot waves were breaking right on shore. Grace and Grant were blissfully happy holding hands in the churning water and digging in the sand. 

Cori is a pretty good body surfer! And sometimes, a baby just needs to be naked at the beach.

Upon arrival at the beach, a happy team of helpers would gather chaises, umbrellas, seat covers, clean towells and tables and set everything up. They tour the beach and the pool with chilled towellets, ice water, lemonade, and cups with dried mango. I actually snorted a little when I was asked the first time if I wanted to be spritzed with Evian water. Seriously? But by the end of the week, I was handing over my sunglasses for cleaning.

Mom made swimsuits and dresses for the girls. Grace is wearing her swimmy here. Growing up, during the age of french cut everything in the 80s and early 90s, mom made our swimsuits every summer. I'm glad Grace and Eden have one of their own now too. :)

There is an amazing tide pool area on the end of the bay opposite from the resort. We waited for low tide and picked our way around the coral one afternoon. There was a deep pool that was great for Grace and Grant to do some assisted snorkling. 

There was a fun family day where the luau grounds were filled with all sorts of Hawaiian fun. We got to try some traditional games, Dad got a ukulele lesson, Gracie learned a hula, Mom made a puka shell necklace...

...and we got matching tattoos. Because that is what good parents do.

Sunday found us in Lana'i City to attend the Lana'i branch for Church. The branch meets in a modest, neatly kept structure that is neighbored by another small building used for their primary. Like so many of the islanders, most of the branch members work at the resorts and so Sunday attendance is a fluctuating thing. Spending the Sunday meetings with these great people was such a treat. Some of them have been on the island for a while and have seen a lot of change. I am always humbled to meet members of the church from other places. There are so many supremely good people in the world. Dad got to play piano for sacrament meeting. And we enjoyed the same Spirit that is part of every church meeting, no matter where the location. We also enjoyed a few perks seeing the Church ohana at the resort afterwords (we always got our preferred breakfast table and were brought little extra things from the kitchen.:)).

Grace, Grant and Eden ended up being the only children in primary that day. Sister Kawasaki, the primary president, told her two primary workers they could go to sunday school and she and I did the primary meetings together. She had a cute little lesson prepared. I did music time. And then we brought down the toys and had nursery time for the last hour. She found a little gecko amongst the toys which kept Grace and Grant busy.

At one point, the gecko leapt out of sight and the G's spent frantic minutes searching for him only to find him, at last, on Grant's tie.

The Four Seasons Lodge at Koele was our favorite discovery. Our first visit was a night where the kids had an activity to attend and so mom, dad, me and Cori went up to the Lodge for dinner. (Quite possibly the fanciest dinner I've ever had.) We made a couple of daytime visits in the days that followed to poke around the hotel and tour the gardens. We heard the shuttle driver say that this is the second nicest hotel in the US and that it makes the top 10 list of best hotels world wide. At first glance, we weren't so impressed. But after spending some time there, we couldn't get enough of this place.

The lodge is in the center of the island, completely land locked. It features a first rate golf course, horse stables and beautiful gardens. We had dinner there a couple of nights, spent lots of time wandering the gardens, played a few games of croquet, and listened to Grace sing to the fish in the pond.

There is a little green house along the garden walk that has some padded benches, a few ceiling fans, and about a hundred varieties of orchid.

At the end of the garden walk is an 18 hole putting course. A real golf course in miniature, with sand traps and everything. 

Our last day was a full one. Our flights didn't leave until late in the evening. So we had the day to do whatever we wanted, only with all our bags packed. We took the G's for a hike to the southeastern point of Hulopoe bay. There are some ruins there as well as a view of Maui.

That afternoon, we visited the Lana'i Heritage Center, a little museum in Lana'i City. We also got to peak around the historic Hotel Lana'i. The 12-room hotel was one of the shuttle stops and we enjoyed a cold beverage on the porch while waiting for our ride. We couldn't get over the environment. Looking around Lana'i City, all we could see was South Lake Tahoe - the pine trees, the brush, the houses, the small town feel...

The best part of the trip was being together. It is a special thing to share so much time. We are so grateful to Dad and Mom for having us along with them!